The debate over good hair vs. bad hair is a deep-rooted issue that continues to shape how people of color view their natural hair.
These labels didn’t come from us; they were handed down through generations of colonialism, racism, and Eurocentric beauty ideals.
And while the natural hair movement has made progress, the idea that some textures are “better” than others still lingers in media, marketing, and even within our own communities.
The Origins of the “Good Hair” Lie
The concept of “good hair” dates back to the era of slavery and colonization.
During this time, people with looser curl patterns, finer strands, and hair that resembled European textures were often perceived as more desirable or “more acceptable” by the dominant culture.
These individuals sometimes received better treatment or more opportunities, simply because their appearance was seen as closer to whiteness.
Over time, this mindset thrived in communities of color. It evolved into a form of internalized bias, where certain textures were praised while others were shamed.
Kinky, coily, tightly coiled textures, especially 4C hair, were labeled as “bad,” difficult, or unprofessional. And so the cycle continued.
Texturism and Colorism
The “good hair” vs. “bad hair” narrative is deeply connected to texturism and colorism:-
- Texturism is the preference for looser curl patterns over tightly coiled ones.
- Colorism is the favoritism shown to lighter skin tones over darker ones, often within the same racial or ethnic group.
These biases are harmful and teach us to devalue the most Afrocentric expressions of our beauty.
Children with tightly coiled hair grow up thinking they need to alter, straighten, or hide their hair to be accepted or admired.
Unlearning What You Were Taught
Thankfully, we are in the midst of a natural hair renaissance, a movement that is actively dismantling these toxic narratives.
More people are embracing their natural textures, celebrating their coils, and teaching the next generation that all hair is good hair when it is healthy, cared for, and loved.
But the work isn’t finished.
Brands, media, and even some members within the natural hair community still promote length, definition, and looser curls as the gold standard. We must challenge this.
Debunking the Good Hair vs. Bad Hair Narrative
| MYTH | TRUTH |
| Good hair = looser curl pattern | Good hair = healthy, cared-for hair, no matter the curl type |
| Kinky or 4C hair is hard to manage | Kinky hair is versatile and manageable when properly moisturized |
| Shrinkage is a sign of damage or dryness | Shrinkage is a sign of moisture and elasticity. It means your hair is thriving! |
| Straight hair is more professional | All textures are professional. It’s the bias that’s unprofessional |
| You have to use heat or chemicals to look polished | Your natural texture is polished, beautiful, and powerful as is |
| Natural hair doesn’t grow | All hair grows. Retention is usually the issue |
| 4C hair can’t be defined or styled well | 4C hair is incredibly versatile, from frohawks to twist-outs |
| Curly hair isn’t elegant or formal | Curly and coily styles are stunning in any setting |
| Thicker textures are “too much” | Thicker textures are rich, bold, and uniquely expressive |
| Mixed hair is better | No texture is “better”. All hair is valid, worthy, and beautiful |
Join the Fight – Good Hair vs. Bad Hair
- Speak life over your texture, regardless of your curl pattern.
- Uplift 4C hair in your content, conversations, and praise.
- Learn about the historical roots of these biases so you can better understand and overcome them.
- Celebrate creators, stylists, and brands that honor all textures.
There is no such thing as bad hair. Only misunderstood and neglected hair, and hair that hasn’t been told it is beautiful yet.
Let’s stop repeating the lie. And let’s start teaching the truth: our hair, in every texture and curl, is powerful, worthy, and good.
Abi is the founder behind Ade Ori Hair Care and the Healthy Natural Hair Products ecosystem, a platform trusted by women seeking clean, effective solutions for textured hair. With over 10 years of hands-on experience, she combines research-backed insight, ingredient transparency, and natural formulations to help women nourish their curls from the inside out. She’s passionate about empowering women through DIY tools, holistic hair education, and a community-first approach. Learn more here.
